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Message # 6318.1.1.1

Subject: Re: Filters and exposures

Date: Sat 11/10/03 11:49:41 GMT

Name: soggybottom

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This, to is correct. I leave my polarizer on the 35mm all the time. It is more useful than anything I have used. I havn't found an appreciable drop in lighting using mine. When you have through-the-lense metering as in the 35mm camera you only meter the light going through the lense anyway. If the filter cuts down this amount of light, it is the amount of light that hits the meter that is recorded.

All of these things are true to some extent.

I think my original idea was to help improve the quality of the films that we buy.

I guess the most important thing is LIGHT, LIGHT, AND MORE LIGHT. If you are not concentrating on these things when you are shooting you will have garbage. It is the strength and quality of LIGHT that makes photography, either 35mm or digital, or video. You can do wonders with a cheap camera.

This is important stuff because this entire subject depends on photography of some sort.

Also, I am not the one out there shooting all these wounderful photos. I can just offer my humble opinion from my wildlife and sceinic photography experience.

In reply to Message (6318.1.1)

Filters and exposures

By Kev - kev.styx@ntlworld.com Sat 11/10/03 07:46:51 GMT

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Polarising filters are great- however there are some things you need to know about them.

If you are using autofocus lenses you need a circular polarising filter- if you use a standard linear polariser then it will effect the beam splitter and give incorrect exposures.

They have to be rotated to give the maximum effect- ideally you should position yourself at 90 degrees to the light source and then rotate the filter to increase colour saturation and reduce glare- this tends to slow down your shooting speed.

They also hold back up to 2 stops of light, which in a camcorder often means the gain circuit kicks in and you lose quality. On a still camera it can mean reducing your shutter speed so you might get camera shake.

They don't work properly with flash systems- for that you need to fit polarising filters to your lights.

Cameras metering systems do not work off the brightest areas- they meter the entire scene (unless you use spot metering) and then calculate the exposure based on "average grey" or 18 percentage reflectance.

To get the best results put you camera on manual, meter from a subject that has mid tones (grass for example) or better still use an incident light meter. Then use this setting throughout your shoot. Fill in flash should be set to one stop below the ambient light, for example if you are shooting at f8, then set you flash to f5.6

Bear in mind that in bright conditions outdoors, fill in flash is useful, however the drawback is that the brighter the conditions the more power you flash has to output to match them. This can rapidly drain you batteries and you are left in a situation where you can't get any pictures at all.

In reply to Message (6318.1)

Re: RE: Ross filters for camera

By Ross - xross1@hotmail.com Sat 11/10/03 01:17:23 GMT

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Thanks again.

I'm looking around to see if I can find a filter to go on my sharp digital camcorder. I had one in my old sony camera but had no idea what it was really used for. Learning as I go I guess.

Funny, I was just checking a web site and it showed a lady in the shower with dark pants on. Great shots but the subject was very dark. Now I have an excuse to get my girlfriend wet tonight and try out different filters.

Regards,

Ross.

In reply to Message (6318)

RE: Ross

By Anonymous - Fri 10/10/03 03:22:39 GMT

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Ross, I just updated a message in response to your request for info. See message 6342 back on 10/6. It concerns filters and lighting.

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